Feisty Blue Gecko

It's been a while!

2010-11-09T19:13:00.003+05:30

Well, it is just over a year since I updated FBG and directed folks in a new direction. It has been a gruelling year, and the detail has been captured and shared relentlessly (on the link below).

I have said firmly that following my diagnosis, life changes and is seen through a different lens and now that the heavy treatment is over (and I hope I never have to go through it again) I am finally moving forward without my actions being dictated by medical things.

Life through that new lens continues on the Tail of the Unexpected!

A change of direction

2009-10-30T09:50:00.002+05:30

So life changes, and you get surprises. This one is the biggest and most difficult challenge of my life.

I am recording and documenting what is going on in an attempt to process and share it.
It needs its own space and you can access it here:

http://feistybluegeckofightsback.wordpress.com/

Back!

2009-10-17T20:40:00.002+05:30

To see why I have been offline and unable to blog here for a while, have a look at http://feistybluegecko.wordpress.com/

Farewell Delhi days and Incredible India!!

2009-06-16T12:21:00.009+05:30

Finally the paperwork is complete, visas in passports and tickets being issued so that we can travel tomorrow (Wednesday) - so it is time to bid Delhi farewell. We have been here longer than anticipated and it's been good to spend time here. Memories and impressions of our stay in Delhi include:

Wonderful advertising - this medical outlet really knows how to attract attention!

Creative and appropriate motorcycle headgear..........
and colourful hair styles

Seeing how many passengers you can get into an auto

and peeking through the fancy temple like windows at the back

Cars with fitted curtains as a regular feature.

All kinds of roadside shops and stalls...........

Chaperoned driving instruction - driving lessons where your sisters and aunties can come along too.................

Pigeons having a ball - and a bath on the rooftops after a storm

and cows going about their daily work

Forget pizza delivery - what about pot plant delivery?

...............and my favourite - at the end of each day, as the sun goes down - watching people gather on the grassy islands in the middle of the busy flyovers near Safdarjung!

How on earth they get there is a mystery, but they clearly seem to enjoy relaxing there, oblivious to the lanes of speeding traffic surrounding them! Wonderful - Incredible India Indeed!

"Warthogs and children have right of way"

2009-05-23T19:29:00.006+05:30

proclaims the marvellous sign greeting you in Nairobi National Park, Kenya! And just to prove the point, here is a warthog exercising his right of way!

We had an amazing drive through the park this morning, and I saw zebra for the first time in my life in the wild
as well as giraffe. After so many years in Asia, it was truly amazing to see such different wildlife.

History

2009-05-19T02:23:00.002+05:30

Today is such a historic day for Sri Lanka. For us it was a very hard time to leave.

Before I post some reflections and images from the period as we prepared to depart, here are a couple of "leaving Sri Lanka" images from our last few hours on the island....

Nomads again

2009-05-01T16:49:00.004+05:30

That's it - another chapter is about to begin. The Sri Lanka chapter has now closed - we left hot sticky Colombo and made our way to Delhi.

If Colombo was hot and sticky like a sauna, Delhi was just like walking into an oven! Apparently yesterday was the hottest April day recorded for 51 years. Every surface is hot to the touch and when the power goes off (which seems to be happening quite often) it is incredibly hot. It is hard to believe that in the winter months Delhi has a penetrating, damp cold which you feel particularly indoors.

So, what now? Unlike a book, we don't move on immediately to the next chapter. We have to wait for paperwork and other things to be in place so I guess this is some kind of limbo-in-between stage. We will have some days in Delhi taking care of some arrangements - and baking, before we probably head to Siliguri in north Eastern India to spend time with family. While we don't want to have to wait too long in this nomadic, limbo state, this will be a welcome break from the intensity of the past month and wonderful to spend time with family before we move on again.

It will also be a chance to reflect back on our Sri Lanka experience and record the experiences which I have not yet put into words here and share some of the many pictures.

Happy New Year!

2009-04-15T17:15:00.003+05:30

I have just returned from a fabulous trip to the South of Sri Lanka where I spent the New Year at the invitation of a close colleague. The trip was a mix of spiritual, ritual and tradition, wildlife and adventure. Each aspect deserves its own write up and of course, there is no shortage of photographs!

Watch this space...........

2009-04-10T11:52:00.000+05:30

Change and reflection

2009-04-10T08:12:00.000+05:30

I have been quiet here over the past weeks as we approach yet another big change. My work in Sri Lanka will come to an end in 20 days, as will our stay here. Things are taking shape for the next step - the next job, the next country and, I am sure, the next pressure cooker and rice cooker! That is how it has been since we left Nepal.

Then I think back, and realise that it has been nearly 9 years since I left Scotland to come and live and work in Asia. I remember the trepidation as I prepared to leave for Kathmandu in 2000. I had never been to Nepal before. In fact my only visit to Asia had been for a certain milestone birthday trip the previous year when I travelled on the Trans-Siberian railway through Russia, Mongolia and China instead of having a party. So it was a huge step to a new life and new job in a new country, new continent and new organisation. As well as being a risk, it had been a dream for many years. A dream is all very well, but I had no idea if I was able to meet the challenge of the reality.

I arrived in Kathmandu in the middle of a monsoon downpour and the images of the journey from the airport to town are still etched firmly in my mind. Everything seemed brown (a combination of the fading afternoon light, the rain and the mud) as we drove through the narrow streets past tiny shops and cows chewing rubbish . Leaving Kathmandu nearly 6 years later was a huge wrench and it still feels more like home than anywhere else.

Now I am preparing for another departure and arrival, and coincidentally, another milestone age as it is now 10 years since the Trans-Siberian adventure. An adventure which heralded a completely new phase in my personal and professional life and which broadened my horizons beyond any wild expectations I had ever had. I still find it incredible that I have lived and worked in these special places (Nepal, Mongolia, India and Sri Lanka) and visited many more. Now after four years of a relatively nomadic experience we are hoping to be a bit more settled in our next place.

So, watch this space for news and updates...............

Snowing in Rangoon?

2009-03-08T15:15:00.004+05:30

When I was preparing to leave Rangoon/Yangon this week after a short visit, the young man at the hotel reception advised me to be careful. "It is snowing on the road to the airport" he told me.

Snow in Rangoon?? The previous afternoon had been in the mid 30s C and people complaining of the heat, so I was surprised, to say the least, to hear it was snowing.

"Yes", he said, "it was snowing so much I could not see more than a few yards in front of me. I think your flight will be delayed".

Then I twigged - foggy season. Well it is wet, cold and white - so I guess there is not that much difference if you are not used to snow?

All in a day's work

2009-02-26T18:59:00.003+05:30

I often feel that the best part of my work is the visits to the field, working with colleagues and communities and really getting to understand the challenges. I have been fortunate enough to travel to many parts of the island, and am treated to some great sights on the road.

Like this line of brand new tri-shaws lined up at the roadside.
and this truck which someone (the coconut shell loader probably) has very carefully arranged with thousands of empty coconut shells

Lush green paddy, coconut and banana plants, in the "wet zone" of the island.
and wet weather in the "dry zone"
All manner of bird and wild life - and late in the afternoon in the East, we are treated to these commuting elephants, apparently on their way home

Not a bad way to balance a hard day's work!

Images

2009-02-22T17:56:00.003+05:30

These images give a good sense of the events on Friday in Colombo. They are not mine (they're from the web) - I was sheltering inside, but had a good enough view of what was going on.

Safe and sound

2009-02-21T03:00:00.003+05:30

Thanks for the many messages of concern - I finally got home around 2 am after a pretty scary night in Colombo - too many fireworks for my liking, just hope and pray for others................ http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/7902392.stm

Impressions of Nainital

2009-02-03T18:59:00.002+05:30

As promised, here are some pictures from our December visit to Nainital in Uttarakhand, North Western India. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nainital

Picturesque Nainital sits at an altitude of nearly 2000 metres and this picture makes it look as if the Lake drains out from the other side of the valley. In fact, you can't easily see from Nainital that there is a neighbouring town at the other end of the Lake .

This is a fascinating hill station, clearly popular with Indian holiday makers, especially honeymoon couples. We saw many couples with their marriage finery, and even sweet, though possibly coincidentally matching sari and fleece sets!

The town is clearly geared up for holiday makers with activities and every kind of stall along the Lakeside - you can eat......

freshly prepared Chaat............

omelettes.........

..............fluorescent candy floss as just a few examples.

And you can go boating...........

.....shopping for woolly slippers to wear with flip flops (thongs)............

or watch the cricket.........

or even try .................................

.............SHOOTING!!!! Yes, this is not just a fun activity for young folks, granny can also have a shot (literally) though no prizes even if you burst the balloons set up as targets.

We thoroughly enjoyed our unusual day trip which ended with a pleasant drive back down through the hillside scenery

to Ramnagar to catch the overnight Ranikhet Express back to Delhi.

Nainital

2009-01-24T17:43:00.002+05:30

From our trip to Nainital (North India) - we didn't apply for membership! More pictures to follow.

A New New Year

2009-01-01T16:32:00.001+05:30

A very New and Happy Year! I think that my friend and colleague P's great smile conveys the best message for 2009!

I was somewhat surprised a few days ago when I learned that January 1st is not a public holiday in Sri Lanka. OK, as a Scot I was totally astounded. The first clue was an email inviting all staff based in Colombo for "Breakfast on Thursday, 1st Jan 2009 at 10.00 a.m. in order to usher in the new year". (Coming to the office on a holiday in itself was not totally new to me - in Nepal everyone comes into the office at Desain on one of the key puja days). However, I then discovered that not only are we invited for the New Year breakfast, but also that in Sri Lanka it is more than not a holiday - it is decidedly auspicious to come to work on 1st January. It augers well for the coming year. (In Scotland, unless you are in a profession where this is a working day, you would have at least 1 and 2 January as holidays for traditional first footing, and meeting friends, family and neighbours. You would actively avoid having to work on 1st January.)

I had two choices - take a day's leave in lieu of working 10 days solid (including Christmas Day) or coming into work and experiencing this rather different approach to New Year. Being a curious old git, there was not much choice, and when you factor in the free brekkie there really is only one path to follow.

So at midnight I was alone (solitary but not lonely) listening to the cacophony of fireworks in every direction, punctuated with church bells and doing a small puja, sipping (believe it or not) green tea. (I am determined to set the tone for the year - focused, healthy, spiritual, creative and comfortable with my own company while hubby J is also working).

This morning I looked out some nice bright clothes and set off for the office. There was a feast set out waiting for us in the library/resource area and colleagues milling around greeting each other.

After the traditional speech from our acting director, we were invited to tuck in to the traditional New Year food - milk rice, spicy pickles, sweet fried sweets and fruits.

What a wonderful start to the New Year - welcoming in a new era with colleagues in the sunshine with tasty food.

A very Happy and New New Year indeed!

Looking ahead and reflecting back

2008-12-28T18:59:00.001+05:30

2008 has been an immensely tough year, yet an exciting year, a year of loss and near loss amidst gain and renewal, a year where I have pushed myself beyond my limits.

I am at the brink of 2009 with a host of promises and resolutions (aren't we all at this time, every year?!) However, this year sees a certain milestone birthday, which gives even more impetus to make certain changes.

So just to get us off on the right foot, here is a refreshed image of that feisty old blue gecko!

With warm wishes that 2009 will bring peace, happiness and accord.

Many meanings

2008-11-25T17:54:00.000+05:30

.........and marketing in Mongolia

2008-11-22T16:19:00.003+05:30

.............and how about this for a classic advertisement hoarding, which I spotted when we were living in Mongolia.

Yes, it really does boast "Meeting your every blasting need".

So far that wins the prize for the most obscure advertisement I have ever seen!

Marketing

2008-11-22T15:37:00.005+05:30

Isn't it funny how some things become amusing with just the slightest change of spelling or expression? I always smile when I pass a chemist nearby which has the proud display "Super Drugs". Totally different to Superdrug in what it conveys!

I think my favourite though, is the advertising hoard for a car repair workshop which proudly tempts custom with its sign "New and used body parts here".

Thanks, but no thanks - I reckon I will pass on all of the above!

Edible and not so edible surprises!

2008-11-16T21:41:00.001+05:30

How ironic - lack of posting on the blog is related not to a dearth of things to talk about, but due to too many things to talk about and not enough time to write about them! So thought I would just try and jot down some short and sweet observations for the time being.

I am always interested in the variety of different fruits and vegetables available here, and usually have no idea how to prepare most of them. So I thought I would be adventurous the other day when I was shopping in Arpico (one of the supermarket chains here) and stocked up on a number of interesting vegetables which are in season at the moment. I spied a small pumpkin and thought I would be really brave and make a pumpkin soup or curry, which would go beautifully with some peppers and other seasonal veg. So far so good.

That evening I got to work, peeling and chopping and left the pumpkin till last. The peppers and onions were all chopped and ready and another pot was hosting a medley of fresh beetroot, cabbage and onions. I sliced into the fresh pumpkin flesh and opened it ready to chop. But instead of the orangey flesh I was expecting, I was greeted with white flesh and large seeds! I stared at the mutant pumpkin in horror - and discovered that it was a large, round relative of the cucumber, masquerading as a pumpkin! It was wearing the same colour of skin as a pumpkin it was the same kind of size and shape and even sitting in the same spot in the veggie counter - and worst of all, totally unsuitable for soup!

That was surprise number one - the inedible one.

After a re-think and development of a fresh plan (including relegation of cucumber to the fridge), I set to work on the rest of the dishes. Remembering the wonderful flavours of Russian Borsch (beetroot soup) from my time in Belarus and Russia, I had the idea of preparing something a bit different. A creative concoction developed, which featured a hint of chilli, a handful of cumin seeds, garlic and some of hubby's spices. A brilliant purple mix developed and a rather interesting aroma. With some trepidation, I tasted it, anticipating another disaster, and I was highly surprised to find that beetroot and cabbage curry is really tasty, even if you can see it in the dark!

And that was surprise number two! It was particularly yummy with beaten rice and eaten in South Asian style (with the hand) and results in matching purple fingers!

Multi tasking

2008-10-16T18:59:00.002+05:30

I left home the other morning to go to work, and looking up at the sky and seeing some clouds, I decided not to take my umbrella as the sun was not too bright. Umbrellas are essential here to provide shade from the sun when you are walking. However, halfway to work, the heavens opened and a torrential downpour started to drench anyone and anything out in the open - especially me, with no umbrella. That is when I realised that I have been in South Asia for a long time. Really, a Scot has no excuse - I should know better, that the first function of an umbrella is for keeping you dry when it is raining, not for keeping the sun off you. I wonder how that approach would go down in Glasgow?? "Oh now mind and take your umbrella, I think it's gonnie be sunny the day". Somehow I don't think so!

That was one of a number of rather dramatic rainstorms these days. I have seen it called "inter monsoonal monsoon." I think that is the same as the "pre monsoon incessant rain" which I frequently saw reported in the newspapers in Nepal. What often makes the rainstorms dramatic here in Sri Lanka, is the bright sunshine through the torrential rains, giving strange light and shadows. Now how would that go down in Glasgow? Er - it's sunny and it's raining? Now that really is multi tasking!

Alms giving - or taking?

2008-09-16T18:59:00.002+05:30

"Didn't I tell you to give the alms to the MONKS?!"

I just loved this - walking back from the boddhi tree at Anuradhapura's sacred city, we were harrassed by monkeys who were after the offerings carried by the pilgrims and visitors to the stupa. But I am not quite sure how they got hold of this!

Travels in the other north

2008-09-16T18:48:00.001+05:30

After my visit to the other north, which was one of the most intense and extreme experiences of my life, hubby J and I took off for the weekend to the historic and sacred sites in Dambulla and Anuradhapura in a very different north.In true Sri Lanka hospitality we were welcomed to our room - with a message written in flowers on the floor.
We were staying on the shores on Lake Kandalama, with views of Sigiriya to the north and set in a very tranquil and natural environment.

I think there were more squirrels than guests - they were having a ball all around the grounds. The pool was enormous and the water warm and comfortable, and even the dining area and bar are set in open air.

It was a real break - traditional dancers at night and of course,

a flowery good night message!

too much many....

2008-08-24T13:35:00.008+05:30

..........makes a mickle mackle muckle.

My favourite saying, for when things get a bit overwhelming, or too much. I'd like to think it is my own creation mixing a Scottish flavour with the sub continent quaintness of expression.

And that is how it has been the past few weeks, one of those periods when lots of big things land in your life, all at the same time, each seeking energy and attention.

We were stopped in our tracks a few weeks ago by my father's serious illness. Thanks to today's global Internet and phone communications, modern health care services in Scotland and of course the ability to get yourself across the world in a short space of time I was able to spend a few precious days back in Scotland. Interestingly it took longer to get to the hospital in rural northern Scotland from London, than it did to get from Colombo to London. I was quite taken aback by the number of visitors and tourists which put accommodation at a premium both in terms of availability and cost. But good news for Scotland and probably also for the environment. It had its moments for me too, experiencing extremes in hospitality from a wonderful warm Bed and Breakfast with glorious sea views, delicious traditional breakfast, and superfriendly and welcoming hosts to a version of Mrs Fawlty who spent her time complaining about all the guests, and a night spent in what was called a guest cottage but I am sure was a converted dog kennel! It was also an unexpected and very welcome chance to spend special time with family - it is incredible that in the most intense and difficult of times, we are able to have warm and close time too. As my father's health slowly stabilises and improves we have that extra sense of support and closeness.

Time, energy and a fair bit of stress is also taken up by the latest situation here and the implications as it affects me and my work personally, but more so my friends and colleagues. As I said earlier, that is not something for discussion here or now, but that doesn't detract from the seriousness of what is going on.

So you can imagine how much I was looking forward to hubby J's arrival this week. I had just returned from Scotland drained emotionally and physically and somehow managing to end with "double jet lag", rather than the "no jet lag" I had talked myself into expecting from such a short trip. At the same time I am gearing up to the demands of an intense field trip, so all in all feeling pretty strained. Hubby was all set to travel by train from Siliguri on Wednesday, would arrive in Delhi the following day and catch Thursday evening's flight to Colombo! Wonderful! Or it was until J called with the news that there was an "all India strike" and three states in particular were completely at a standstill. One of those was of course West Bengal, where trains were stopped and even the planes were "ground landed" J's train was halted in Assam for 14 hours so he had a long and miserable wait at Siliguri until the strike lifted that night and the train finally rolled into the station where J, many other miserable travelers and a significant number of cows were waiting on the platform. He arrived in Delhi 13 hours late, far too late to get the flight of course. Thanks to technology, we were able to get his ticket changed and he arrived 36 hours later than expected, a few hours before I will be heading out for my field work, but long enough to rustle up tasty aubergine and pumpkin curries!

And you can never have too much many of tasty curries!

Eclipse perspectives

2008-08-01T07:18:00.002+05:30

So now we have a really helpful perspective on the effects of the eclipse (thanks to Konchog's comment) "According to the Tibetan Buddhist calendar, the positive or negative effects of actions during a solar eclipse are multiplied by 10,000." So it is up to us! Think of the effect of what we do - and let's make the most of this opportunity and make sure that we focus on actions with positive effects.

On that note, it is time for a clarification - the stunning eclipse images in yesterday's post are not mine! I didn't realise that some folks might think they were, but I got them from the public domain to illustrate the eclipse. Of course I wish they were!

When the eclipse reaches Colombo later this afternoon it will be in the last stages and due to our southern position will be partial (about 20% visible). It might also be hidden by the heavy clouds which have gathered. Let's see .........................

Dreaming Of Danzan Ravjaa An American Buddhist Monk in and out of Mongolia: Religion, Culture, History and Birdlife

In the meantime, this is the link to Konchog's blog with his thought-provoking insights and experiences which are discerning, perceptive, serious, often amusing and entertaining and always fascinating! http://danzanravjaa.typepad.com/my_weblog/

My birthday eclipse

2008-07-31T06:59:00.003+05:30

I have known for a number of years that 2008 is a privileged year for me. On my birthday there will be a total eclipse of the sun!

Apparently an eclipse normally heralds a period of turbulence and change, particularly if it falls on your birthday. Let's hope it is positive.

The sun sets gently at Galle Face

2008-07-11T18:02:00.001+05:30

A weekend break in Unawatuna

2008-07-05T19:43:00.000+05:30

This is beautiful Unawatuna on the southern coast of Sri Lanka where I spent a long weekend with my friend and colleague recently.

A rather dramatic rainstorm suddenly lashed the beach and sea, passing over rapidly and letting the sun break through while the rain was still pouring down.

It is a sleepy, charming town, especially during the off season.
Reminders of the 2004 tsunami..................... and some friends............... including a chameleon disguising himself as a rock or undergrowth.

It was my friend's birthday during our stay. She didn't want any fuss but word still got around. We were sitting on her balcony that evening with some bubbly to celebrate quietly. When there was a knock at the door and she heard ' room service', so didn't think to pay much attention. Shortly after, we left the balcony and on passing through her room she was waved through quickly by the room service young man. We realised that there was some plot afoot, particularly given that the said room service young man was sprawled across the four poster bed surrounded by flower petals and leaves! "Please don't look", he pleaded. "Er - OK, no problem" we assured him. Only to hear him call after us - "Excuse me - so could you tell me how you spell your name"?

The poor lad was in charge of making the elaborate flower petal decorations on each guest's bed each night and had been instructed to do a special one for my friend as it was her birthday! Not easy to do this subtly when you don't know the spelling!

Colours of the south

2008-06-18T19:14:00.003+05:30

A rather creative water and flower arrangement in the south of Sri Lanka - and a taste of the next instalment.........

Afghan insights

2008-06-18T17:59:00.004+05:30

As I boarded the aircraft from Doha for Islamabad, I realised I was squeezed into a tiny seat on the huge airbus. Hope that I would have the 2 seats to myself for the 4 hour flight which would arrive in Islamabad at 3 am was soon dashed as a fellow traveller arrived at my row, gestured towards the seat and started to settle in next to me. He was a really interesting looking character, in very traditional Afghan attire but as I hoped to grab a short sleep before the crazy arrival time and anticipated stress at immigration, I kept my guard up and didn’t make an effort to engage in small chat. Neither did he.

As the plane took its passengers on board and prepared for departure, my sputnik (fellow traveller in Russian – literally someone who travels on the same path as you do) also prepared for departure. He donned his traditional head scarf and started a gentle chant accompanied by a rocking motion. His mantra took several minutes and accompanied the security announcement of the flight crew. At some invisible signal the prayer was over, our safe passage assured and the chanting ceased and his scarf was removed.

As we prepared for take off we exchanged pleasantries and names. He told me he had been in the UK and was the head of an NGO working in Pakistan and Afghanistan. He asked me about my job and when I gave vague details of my organisation, he immediately named it and asked if that was who I worked for. This eroded part of the awkwardness between us and we soon started a warm discussion about work in the area. I told him about our work in India and Sri Lanka and he told me about the challenges of working in Pakistan and Afghanistan.

When I said I was from Scotland he said that he had worked with a colleague in the UK who was from Wales. “Is that like Scotland?”, he asked – meaning not England! ”Yes” I replied, ”very much so! ”

He wanted to know about Scotland, he said. I anticipated the usual questions – our national food, industry and history. And bagpipes.

Sure enough, I found myself describing the delights of haggis, detailing how it is prepared and its origins a staple of the rural poor in Scotland. He described the different regional specialities of Afghanistan and dishes of meats marinated in spices and yoghurt and served with exotic fruits and vegetables. If I ever visited Afghanistan he promised to make sure I tasted the most delicious of traditional dishes, which varied enormously from area to area.

”So”, he asked, ”what are your main crops then? ”

Not too difficult, I thought. “Barley, wheat, oats….”I recited.

”And what about livestock – what animals do you farm? ”

Also an easy one.

”Cows, sheep, chickens, pigs and a few goats….”

”Ah. So what is your livestock population then?”

Silence. I have absolutely no idea. And at 38000 feet I have no access to Google to find out.

I resort to one of the most useless facts I have at my fingertips, which is at last useful.

“I don’t know about Scotland but do you know, that Mongolia is half the land size of India, and the human population is only 2.6 million. Isn’t that amazing? And the most interesting thing is that the large livestock population is 28 million. Incredible, isn’t it?”

But I have no idea about the livestock population in Scotland. Absolutely no idea at all.

“So what would be the price at market of an average sized sheep then? ”, he asks.

Please ask me about rocket science, I think to myself – at least then I wont feel so bad that I have no idea.

I guess wildly “well, I don’t really know, but I would think you would pay around £500 at least for a good sheep”. Quite what the basis is for that guess, I am not sure.

”Aaah. And what would the weight be of an average sheep then? ”

My eyes scan the aircraft and passengers for inspiration. My brain develops a sudden ability to operate some desperate sift, sort and search action. With no result. Sheep are heavy. Heavier than a grown man? Groan – I just have no idea.

I blurt out the first figure that I can think of.

”50 kilos”. Where did that come from? No idea, but that is what came out of my mouth.

”So it must be around £10 a kilo for sheep meat then?” He calculates.

My silence and stupid smile tell him that it must indeed be.

I am rescued by the arrival of our in flight catering and both of us are unable to chew our Qatari cuisine and talk at the same time.

The lights are dimmed immediately after eating and conversation is replaced by a companionable silence and attempts to doze before arrival in Islamabad.

We exchange cards at the airport and I make a firm promise to find out the answers to his questions. I have been reminded of a very different set of priorities and feel an sudden and urgent need to know more about my country.

Tag-a-dag for breakfast?

2008-06-18T17:13:00.003+05:30

On the first morning in Islamabad I went exploring with my colleague in the neighbourhood where we were staying.

He was pretty hungry and we were drawn to a set of food stalls serving mysterious food. At one stall, a dish of sizzling meat and veg was being served up for a customer and this was just too tempting for my colleague. "I think I'll have one of those!" he announced.

A guy was summoned from another stall to communicate and my colleague was able to order one of the tasty looking dishes - "You want one tag-a-dag?" he was asked. That sounded great and one tag-a-dag was duly ordered.

We stood by watching to see what this was and how it would be prepared. The cook started by taking 6 tomatoes, roughly chopping them with a cooking implement which was very like a wallpaper stripper. They were thrown on the piping hot and very large wok over a high gas flame. Water was poured on and the cook expertly picked off the tomato skins as the tomatoes sizzled and cooked. With a flourish which any TV chef would be proud of, the cook took some offcuts of meat including liver, brain and testicles, and these were added to the tomatoes and more water. These browned quickly and another wallpaper stripper appeared in the cook's other hand. Placing the sharp sides downward he started to chop at the contents of the wok with rapid and rhythmic movements making a distinct tag-a-dag, tag-a-dag, tag-a-dagga dag-a-dag noise, understandable in any language.

A rather large chunk of butter appeared and was tossed into the pot, followed by chillies, garlic and coriander and in a few moments the whole meal was swept onto a plate beside a steaming nan bread.

There you are sir, one tag-a-dag for you - balls and brains for breakfast then, cooked by percussion!

Full moon

2008-06-18T16:32:00.002+05:30

Today is Poya Day in Sri Lanka, the day of the Full Moon. I was chatting on messenger the other day from my flat in Colombo, cursing the unreliable and expensive dial up connection. Not to worry, I told my son in the UK, it is full moon on Wednesday so that means we will be able to chat properly.

Now you shouldn't be able to hear a stunned silence on messenger, but it came across loud and clear. Finally my son asked "so what exactly has full moon got to do with your internet connection? Some kind of werewolf.com link?"

The answer is really simple. Every Full Moon or Poya Day is a public holiday in Sri Lanka, so that means I can take myself and my laptop to one of the many trendy cafes in Colombo and use the free wireless connections. I can upload photos and blog merrily and catch up on e-mail. Hence the number of updates today!

Trucking and transportation in Pakistan

2008-06-16T19:28:00.000+05:30

We traveled out of Islamabad on the dusty highway to the ancient site of Taxila and on the way I was fascinated by the trucks.
They are ornately decorated and many have old wooden doors which are beautifully carved.

And some interesting sights on the backs of some of the trucks - like a tiger and a horse - and evidently some eminent figure!
And trucks don't have the monopoly on decoration either - the buses are pretty fancy too, if a tad overcrowded.
as are the smaller mini buses

But if you need something a bit less crowded, for example if you want to travel with your favourite buffalo then there are also options for you.................
or of course, there's always Shank's pony.

Where am I???

2008-06-02T20:54:00.000+05:30

At extremely short notice I was lucky to have the chance to visit somewhere new - some impressions were very different to what I expected.

A bit like Scotland?

In some places like Nepal??

In fact, this was my first visit to Islamabad, Pakistan

More in the coming days about the journey there, impressions and of course images.

More images of Vesak

2008-05-31T20:47:00.007+05:30

The parade took hours to pass so instead I wandered around to take in some of the amazing lanterns around my area

Images of Vesak

2008-05-20T18:46:00.010+05:30

This full moon is a really special one - it is the Vesak celebration (Buddha Jayanti in Nepal) which is a really important celebration in Buddhism, marking Buddha’s birth, death and reaching nirvana or enlightenment.

What is fascinating is how differently the occasion is marked. In Sri Lanka, the streets have been filling with stalls lined with paper lanterns with trails, and buildings are being dressed up with garlands of lights. Important and holy places are adorned, and even main roundabouts are meticulously decorated with lights, lanterns and huge lotus blossom lamps.

In fact it reminds me more of Diwali or Tihar, the Hindu festival of Lights as it is often called. In Nepal, on the day of Laxmi Puja, the day to celebrate the goddess of wealth (Laxmi) is the highlight of the Tihar festival. Garlands of lights are strung on buildings and thousands upon thousands of butter milk candles are prepared for lighting when night falls. The belief is that Laxmi will visit the most brightly illuminated homes and bestow wealth for the coming year. Little footprints of mud guide her to the places where she should focus her wealth (we always used to have a trail leading to the safe in our office!) As evening would fall the Kathmandu Valley would be ablaze with lights until inevitably the power would fail with the huge overload. Then it would be bathed in the gentle warm glow of thousands of buttermilk candles, which I found incredibly beautiful.

So I find Vesak in Colombo reminiscent of a very different Festival in Nepal. Here are a few images for starters.........

As evening falls you can see the lights and lanterns at most houses lighting up.

The full moon shines over the cityMy neighbours have decorated their door with a bright star lantern.

And thousands of these lanterns are strung everywhere in streets, outside buildings and homes.

Now a parade is coming along our street so I am off to watch it .....

Second impressions

2008-05-17T21:23:00.003+05:30

A few more impressions of the early days of life and work in Sri Lanka…

· In Nepal I was almost always called (elder) sister “didi” – in the street, in shops, in meetings, in restaurants and even in the doctor’s surgery. I have to stress that the elder reference is more a mark of respect than seniority in age of course!!! In South India and in Sri Lanka so far, I seem to be called Madam everywhere.
· Fish! Fish available everywhere – from the wee guy nipping in and out of gates in the residential areas with a pole balancing two containers of extremely fresh fish for sale to the (smelly) aisle of dried fish in the supermarket.
· Curried banana flowers – mmmm.
· The removal of alcohol, meat and eggs from sale every full moon.
· A different dress code for women in Colombo – there are traditional Sri Lankan saris with a little frill (I’ll get a picture as I cant easily describe it), Indian saris and a few shalwar kameez, but in the main women of all ages wear blouse and skirt – very different to Nepal and India.

And finally – a little moment to share. On Friday evening, as I was enjoying a lovely cold beer with a friend to mark the start of the weekend, the waiter helpfully topped up my friend’s glass. He did this with a rather interesting technique, holding the bottle well above the glass and pouring with quite a flourish – with the result that the beer promptly produced an unbelievable amount of froth. The waiter responded to our amusement by blaming the beer! “Little bit bubble coming up”, he announced! Little bit bubble?? My friend’s beer was proudly sporting a 6 inch head of froth!!! It’s incredible how much a little bit bubble can lighten the mood and make you laugh!

Taking a moment to think of others

2008-05-17T21:13:00.001+05:30

This week has been momentous in my profession. And for reasons I wish were different.

It is two weeks since Burma was ravaged by Cyclone Nargis and the extent of the disaster is still emerging. Now we have some news about our friends and colleagues there and send all strength and wishes to tackle the immense tragedy of the disaster and moreover, its after effects.

In the midst of images of the carnage in Burma which were challenging us in our comfort, the news of the earthquake in Sichuan started to break. Now, 6 days after the disaster there I am stunned by the images of the devastation and the extent of the loss of life. In the coming weeks we will begin to understand what this means for families not just in terms of loss of life, but how on earth to begin to rebuild homes, livelihoods, communities and to deal with the intangible losses. Even though I have been inside a building which was damaged during a major earthquake (the earthquake of December 26 2004), I cannot begin to imagine the terror and fear of the people who lived through this horror.

My friends and colleagues are working round the clock and in conditions far beyond the comprehension of many of us in both of these emergencies. Their dedication and professionalism is both inspiring and humbling.

All those affected by and working in these disasters should be in at least our thoughts, and preferably our actions.

Ground rules

2008-05-17T16:02:00.004+05:30

I have now managed to get a connection at home so here is a progress report, putting things into context a bit and being rather more serious than usual.

Life and work here is one of contrast. Colombo is a green city, relatively uncrowded and easy to live in. Food is great and although prices are steep due to high inflation and the situation here, there are many nice places to hang out - and you can even get beer! Now, if you have ever been based in Chennai you know that is a change!

However, not far underneath the surface is another reality. In another world, the north of the island is in the grip of fighting and in Colombo bombings are sadly a fact of life. On Friday, we were out of the city when phone calls started coming with news of an attack in the busy Fort area of Colombo. Phones were buzzing as details and reassurances were sought, and calls from concerned relatives overseas even reached us. But I want to be clear – this blog isn’t about that. While I chat about life and work here, there is a very serious side that is not up for public discussion.

But there's plenty that is..............

The next chapter

2008-04-27T14:06:00.002+05:30

Finally, finally, finally I have arrived!

It's been a long haul, and a long silence but after weeks of preparation and waiting I have now taken up the next stage my life and work. I stepped off the plane in Colombo in the early hours of Saturday morning just over a week ago, and into my new job and home within hours. And within hours I had bumped into a former friend and colleague from Nepal which was a real bonus.

The context will be very different here, but will have similarities to India and Nepal. In terms of settling here, the city is green and the area I live and work is really pleasant. The climate is a good 10 degrees cooler and a lot less humid than in Chennai. India is also experiencing a real heatwave at the moment, so the cooler temperature is really welcome. However, it is still warm and sticky so the walk to work does mean that I arrive very warm and sticky!

First impressions of Sri Lanka?

The traffic is slower, there is less of it and it is much easier to cross the road then in Chennai!
Less fruit available for sale on the street.
A whole aisle in the supermarket devoted to car cleaning - dashboard cleaner, bumper cleaner, upholstery cleaner and cleaner for every conceivable part of the car.
the tri-shaw or auto driver has the same marketing approach as in India - screeching to a halt across the road, and stopping in front of you, with a shriek of "TAXI MADAM?"

a few impressions for starters, as I am settling in and getting into the new life here.

Optimism and promises

2008-03-19T16:50:00.002+05:30

I am back in India, and happy that not much has changed in the past couple of months. Delhi is in a state of construction, in preparation for a better tomorrow which is good news for us all. And in the gym near my friend's home in Chennai I was happy to learn that all sorts of facilities are on offer - including

Weight reduction programme!

Gym facilities!!

Aerobic classes!

Height gaining!

Height gaining??? Well, I know what I am signing up for!!

On the move again

2008-03-06T21:09:00.008+05:30

Unusually it was snowing as I left Lismore. Very little snow was lying on the island itself, but the surrounding hills were glistening white in the watery sunshine. Very poignant and moving - and approriate.

I have been in Scotland for two months now, spending most of my time on Lismore, but now it is time to head back to India. Emotional farewells, and no firm start plans for the next job so continuing in the unsettled vein of the year so far.

It has been a real privelege to spend much longer on the island than I have been able to in the past, getting to know the islanders and the community better. There have been a few puzzled faces though by the sight of this stranger wandering around the island!

It will also be good, though to get back into circulation electronically, after a time in the electronical wilderness!

All change - but looking forward

2008-01-16T08:30:00.000+05:30

A guid New Year to one and all!

Well it has been a tough end to my work in Chennai and a highly emotional start to my visit to Scotland, but now I am at least able to get back on track with FBG!

Reaching Scotland in stormy, snowy and freezing cold conditions was a real shock to the system, not helped by the fact that all of my luggage stayed cosy and comfy in Dubai. My warm weather clothing, the little that I had, stayed in my case, where I had strategically packed it - right at the top, ready for me to grab it on arrival at Glasgow airport.

I was faced with a number of challenges. firstly keeping it all together with the baggage handlers while I was extremely fragile emotionally. Secondly, getting socks, shoes, essentials to see me through the first days at breakneck speed. Third, travelling up north on a 3 hour drive so that I caught the last ferry of the day. Fourth, braving the blizzard conditions on the way up which really did try to sabotage the drive - though I did catch the ferry by the skin of my teeth. Fifth, working with the few garments I had, trying to make sure I was decent and appropriate for the funeral the next morning. I am very thankful that family were glad I had made it and excused and ingonred the strange garb I was in.

Now the dust is settling a little, and I am spending some precious time with my father on Lismore, the remote Scottish island where he lives. I am enjoying daily walks in this beautiful place, while starting to reflect on recent months and plan for the next phase.

What's next? Who knows! A few possibilities are coming to light, in various places. For now I am just going to focus on what is important and let the rest fall into place.

Connectivity is a little limited, but I also want to fill in some of the gaps from the last months too, so there is plenty on the horizon to share in the coming days.

Change

2007-12-24T14:04:00.000+05:30

Sometimes life throws things at you when you least expect it and you have to rise to the challenge. Now is one of those times.

I'll be back very soon, but need some days to come to terms with loss and change.

What do you want for Christmas?

2007-12-08T19:39:00.000+05:30

How about a new iron? What about a model like this?

On my way past the ironing shop, I spotted that the iron had just been opened and was was cooling, ready for the next load of coals and the next batch of ironing.

This is one of the things I will really miss when I leave Chennai. You think I could introduce the idea in Scotland? Somehow I can't see it catching on,....................

Diwali in the jungle

2007-11-16T19:17:00.001+05:30

In order to get the most of my break, I left Chennai before daylight for my break in Madhya Pradesh.

Fast forward, two hour flight to Calcutta, 1600 kilometre train journey to Jhansi, and then another 200 kilometres to Panna National park, where we stayed on the banks of the River Ken.

Matching flowers and butterflies outside our cottage.

which itself is nicly set apart from other buildings - not exactly a cramped resort!

Vegetation of Panna National Park

This gorge in Panna is dry in winter, but becomes a spectacular waterfall during the monsoon season.

KIng's view - perfect spot for a cup of tea and watching the sun set over Panna National Park.
A jackal watches us on the track.
The trees are full of these langour monkeys if you take a moment to stop and look

The yellow mark on this picture is the body of a woodspider - you can just make out the black legs - it is HUGE - the legs are 1 - 2 feet long.

The scratch marks tell us that this is a favourite tree of the sloth bear.
Langour monkeys and their designer hooped tails

Sunrise in Bandavgarh as we trail another elusive tiger

Grasses and Fort area of Bandavgarh

Wild boar family

A female spotted deer tries to warm up in the early morning sun.

a sambar deer (I think) watches us pass

Tiger pug marks so fresh that they are on top of the recent jeep tracks.

Another langour watches us
while this young langour hides from the camera

sun sets in Bandavgarh

All in all - a perfect way to spend Diwali, in the jungles of Madhya Pradesh.

A special invitation

2007-11-15T20:59:00.001+05:30

We left our lodge at 5.20 in the morning just as the inky darkness was beginning to lighten in the eastern sky. The waning moon and a few lone stars could be seen through the trees as we climbed into the open jeep, in our cosy woollens and we set off towards the park entrance. As we drove eastwards the sky developed a purplish rosy shade in the promise of approaching sunrise.
As we drove over the rough dusty track, we were joined by other jeeps, all joining in our bid to reach the jungle before the sun did.

At the park gates, the sight transformed into an eerie queue of jeeps, drivers and guides rushing to get forms filled and deal with the park paperwork before we could move any further forward. Shouts of jeep numbers and guide names came from the Park Office and as passes were collected the jeeps lined up at the gates revving their engines in anticipation of the 6 am opening.

Amazing all paperwork seemed to be completed fairly quickly and as the sky turned grey blue the gates opened and the jeeps drove off. My first feeling was one of mild disappointment – I had a romantic notion of driving through the jungle without being in a convoy of jeeps. However, in a matter of moments the park system became apparent and jeeps split off in different directions. I later learned that there are a number of routes and jeeps are allocated routes which they have to follow, to ensure that the popular parts of the park are not overcrowded.

We headed first to a waterhole to see if there was any sign of life or activity – meaning tiger. Nothing. No pug marks, no jungle noises, nothing. So we didn’t wait, and headed off along the allotted route towards a lovely glade. The guide told us that this was one of the tiger’s favourite spots and that he had been spotted in the hill behind us the previous evening. He predicted that if we waited then we could well see him pass through. We approached a good spot to wait, when the guide shouted excitedly. The driver took off – they had spotted another jeep with the people inside standing up – a sign of something interesting. Off we sped towards the spot, ;my jungle hat flying off in the haste. Confession – actually it was not my hat – it belongs to hubby. Dilemma – return for the hat or head to possible tiger spotting? We couldn’t turn right away anyway, so passed the spot where the other jeep was waiting, to find out that they were looking at pug marks which were fairly recent, but no tiger. A quick detour to pick up the hat, which was promptly confiscated by hubby! We then waited for a while. They guides know the signs though, and told us that the monkey calls in the distance were one of alarm, telling us that a predator was near. We stopped and listened for a while and gradually heard a new call taking over, of “whoooop, whoooop”. The guide told us that this is the call is the call of happy monkeys. So much to learn. I was quickly becoming an expert! Whoooop means happy, chuup chuup means look out and don’t get eaten today.

We moved on and quickly new pug marks were spotted – this time very fresh, and on top of jeep tracks. The prints were really clear and followed the track for some time. This surprised me and I asked why. Apparently the tiger has a soft side – his paws are sensitive and the soft pads can be easily hurt by the sharp grasses and undergrowth of the jungle. Injury or damage to the pads will impair his hunting ability. Additionally, in winter, the nights are cold and the grasses wet so it is not very comfortable for tiger paws to walk on. So the sandy tracks are both comfortable and warm and provided us with a great clue of where he was headed. The prints told us that it was one of the male tigers who was near us – his rounded prints are characteristic of the male, while the female has nice pointed prints as if she has been for a pedicure. The guide then saw something else – “look, look, tiger sitting down print”!! and indeed it was a tiger sitting down print – a very clear impression of a huge rear haunch and even a clear impression of his tail in the sand. Is he really that big? The apprehension mixed with sense of amazement was really acute and I could almost feel nauseous with excitement.

We drive on, our experts keeping their ears sharply tuned and we stopped every time we saw fresh pug marks, and noted which direction our tiger friend was heading in, and which tiger they belonged to. “This is the territory of a mother and two cubs of 30 months” we were told as we passed through a grassy area. We stopped again and listened, but no sign of alarm or activity.

We headed towards another area, when the guide suddenly became agitated – “Sambar deer alarm call – very near” he whispered. We stopped, looked. Looked again. Through the trees and bamboo we could see a female Sambar deer looking in our direction, standing stock still and calling in alarm. She suddenly turned and fled into the distance. We knew he was near. The jeep crawled forward, then slightly back, and then at some invisible signal stopped. In front of the jeep, through a thin bamboo thicket, the most incredible sight materialised in front of my eyes like some kind of optical illusion. It was his huge head I saw first, in total disbelief. There, only a few feet from me, was a large male tiger – B2 – just sitting lazily behind this bush, his paws crossed as if he was a domestic cat sitting in front of the fireside. He looked to me as if he had been amusing himself by counting the jeeps going past and remaining unobserved. The moment was one of total magic. We watched him as he pulled himself up on his paws, clearly not amused that we had spotted him and spoiled his game of tourist spotting, and he slowly ambles out from behind the bush, onto the track, behind our jeep and into the jungle on the other side. We watch him, spellbound, through tears of wonder and amazement, trying to capture the moment on cameras incapable of understanding the enormity of the sight. He slowly slopes off into the jungle, away from us until he gets to a certain point where he turns and starts off in a direction parallel to the track. The experts know he is heading to a nearby watering hole, so we slowly follow the track. He watches us for a bit longer before he heads off again towards the watering hole. By the time, we get to the nearby stream, more jeeps have arrived. The jungle drums have sounded out our sighing and we are quickly joined by others. Sure enough a few moments later, B2 again appears at the stream, but at a bit of a distance. The eye can see him clearly, his dramatic colours show up clearly through the jungle, but amazingly the camera cannot distinguish these colours. Perhaps this is similar to the sight of the other jungle animals and why his camouflage is so good. But he has left a distinct and clear impression on my own personal memory card, even if the camera one is not so effective. He doesn’t wait long at the stream and soon disappears back into his jungle, though many of the jeeps wait patiently to see if he will come back. We later learn that he doesn’t return. He knows better and he has had his game already with the strange humans and jeeps.

It is an incredible feeling, seeing this powerful and beautiful beast in his own territory and we are lucky that we have been able to join his morning game.

We continue on our trail alongside the Bandavgarh Fort, the jungle is now teeming with life all around us. Spotted deer, Sambar deer, so many languor monkeys with their designer tails which stand up independently in artistic hoop shapes. We pass a mess of leaves and branches on the ground, a sure sign of languor in the trees above us. Glancing above, the trees are full with these monkeys whoooop whooooping and having fun. On the ground they have the company of deer, their friends. They hang around together in the jungle. The deer eat up the mess that the monkeys make - leaves, fruit and branches and they listen closely for any predators, warning the other if they hear any sign of danger. We see a sloth bear, an extended family of wild boar with their new cropped hair style seemingly for Diwali, a jackal couple in the sunshine on the track, peacock and peahens, many birds including bright fluorescent green parakeets, brilliant yellow golden oriole, and honey birds. The jungle is busier than Chennai in the morning rush hour.

We head to “centre point’, a spot just the other side of the Park Boundary, where tea, snacks and pakora stalls are set up for the hungry and cold tourists. The jeeps gather and the human folks share stories. It seems that we have been very lucky, having a close sighting. I am mildly disappointed that the photographs are less than spectacular, but then the clear image in my own memory is sharp and dramatic. We have warm tea and soggy pakora in the jungle’s edge as the jeeps draw in from nowhere. At the sight of what looks like a small football stadium on the back of a jeep, I am very thankful that I am not on one of the big fancy tours, but am part of a very well run outfit (King’s Lodge, Bandavgarh). Their speciality is that every couple or family has a jeep and naturalist dedicated to them, along with the compulsory Park Guide, so the experience is perfectly matched to the visitors, and the level of information is outstanding.

Tea finished, and refreshed, we return to the jungle trails. The pressure is off. We have been lucky and seen the tiger, and many other game and birds, but still there is that curiosity of whether we will be lucky again in the remaining hour or so before the Park closes at 10 am.

We drive further along the trail, round the edge of the Fort area amongst beautiful jungle landscape and dramatic rocks in the distance. We pass more tracks, and many more of the friendly langours in a really relaxed fashion.

The guide suddenly hears something – “that direction, Sambar deer alarm call”. We turn back and in a different direction, and follow another path towards the calls. We can now also hear the chuup chuup alarm of the languor, in the trees very close to us, and slight further away, the Sambar deer call. We stop and listen, holding our breath in the noisy silence. We wait, the calls continue – they are very near, and regular, and then we hear a growl. “Tiger”, the guide says simply. I am again in a state of amazement. We can just about hear him breathe, and I scrutinise the trees and bushes carefully, again waiting for the magical sight to materialise in front of me. Our ears prickle at every sound, and eyes study every feature around us. I can just about feel his breath on the back of my neck, or is it the sheer intensity of the experience. He’s there. We know he’s there. And he knows that we know he’s there. But the seconds tick by, and although the alarm calls continue, slowly they become less frequent, and more distant. This time the tiger has won his game. He was probably sitting there quietly and patiently until we had to move on before the Park closed, and we leave his territory. We had been guests of his habitat, and had a brief insight into his life and his world by some special invitation.

Back from the jungle

2007-11-12T19:54:00.000+05:30

Just back in Chennai after a wonderful visit across the central part of India, staying in the National Reserves of Panna and Bandavgarh in Madhya Pradesh.

We had close up encounters with so many birds and animals in tiger territory .......... here is a quick preview of our experience.

Giddy

2007-11-02T13:09:00.000+05:30

The rains have stopped for a while - but I can't say the same for myself.

The past three weeks have taken me from Chennai to many other places in intense succession - Port Blair, Delhi and now Calcutta, covering around 5,000 miles. Having only a day or so in between journeys the laundry pile has taken a life of its own and I wake up wondering where I am today. And I couldn't be happier!

The latest trip to Calcutta is for a rare experience - a holiday! This afternoon hubby J and I will jump on the train to Madhya Pradesh and spend Diwali week in the national parks letting tigers spot us.

When I get back there will, I hope, be photos to post and tales to tell, including the ones I haven't shared yet.

Northern squirrels

2007-11-02T08:59:00.000+05:30

I was in Delhi last week and able to observe the behaviour of squirrels in the north of India. Fascinating!

I had been amazed by the squirrels in Chennai - and particularly by the unexpected noise they make - http://feistybluegecko.blogspot.com/2007/06/southern-squirrels.html Toot tooot tooooot!!

However, while breakfasting at my guest house in Delhi last week, I found it really relaxing to watching the northern squirrel cousins going about their daily activities. But most of all, I was astounded to discover that they really do make a totally different noise. they chirrup and chatter just as I had expected their southern relatives to do. I wonder if this is a localised language issue? Do the southern ones speak squirrel Tamil and the northern ones squirrel Hindi? Can the Delhi squirrels understand Edinburgh squirrels? More and more I see the need to study this further.

Retreating monsoon is arriving!

2007-10-29T08:02:00.000+05:30

So, monsoon has arrived in Chennai!

Yesterday the skies were unusually grey with the heavy and fully black monsoonal clouds and through the day the rain was constant. With the result that by the time dark fell, my road had transformed to a river incredibly quickly. The pavements are uncomfortably high for walking, but for some time they were able to keep the water at bay. Finally though, the persistence of the rain falling brought the water levels above the pavement levels. There seems to be a bit of an incline on my street, so the water at one end was much deeper than the other.

This morning, the river is still there but the rain had eased during the night, so it had receded a fair bit. Heavy winds and the high water had thrown a few trees and rubbish around.

A new view from my window.

But life in Chennai contines pretty much as normal.

The waters are receding quickly, and at least today I can get out, but there is more rain forecast over the coming days, so it could be waterlogged for a time.

It is important to see this in perspective though. This year India, and other parts of the region, have seen devastating flooding and although the rains have subsided, the damage and after effects have brought terrible destruction and disease. In the south east of the country we are only now seeing our monsoon season, and although the rain is presently disruptive and destructive, it is not on the scale that we have seen in the north where relief efforts are still underway.

Dictionary corner

2007-10-19T23:15:00.000+05:30

I have to share some wonderful new Indian English words or expressions which I have learned recently. I have added their definitions according to how they appear to be used….

oracy - proficiency in speaking (like literacy, numeracy..)
analysisation - carrying out an analysis

fill upping - the process of ensuring gaps are met

capacitation - training

unless and otherwise - until

suggestive steps - proposed (suggested) action plan

botheration - challenge or inconvenience

And my favourite was the description of a six sided shape (clearly an impressive one)
- hectacular!

Priorities

2007-10-19T23:04:00.000+05:30

I just love inflight announcements. I sit eagerly while the pilot tells us how at many feet and metres altitude we are flying, how many miles and kilometres per hour, our flight path, outside temperature…….……..

“Ladies and gentlemen this is Captain Sharma, your gorgeous pilot. We are happy to welcome you aboard our flight PDQ 007 to Delhi. Our flight time is an estimated 2 hours and 15 minutes. We are climbing to our cruising altitude of 34,000 feet or lots of metres above sea level and our speed is several squillion miles per hour. We will be flying over Bangalore, Hyderabad and Jaipur before holding over Delhi for a further three hours or until air traffic control clears our landing. The outside temperature is minus 45C, but we are maintaining a comfortable temperature of 23.4C inside the cabin for your comfort. Weather in Delhi is reported at a pleasant 42C with a slight easterly breeze and en route we expect a little turbulence over Lucknow if we get a bit lost. Please relax and enjoy the flight and I will be back later to update you on our arrival time”.

I love it – yes it is pretty meaningless and to be honest, does it make a difference to the flight to know how high, fast, cold the plane is? Nevertheless I listen attentively, soak up all the minute details and watch carefully out of the window to make sure the pilot makes sure to remember to put the flappy wing things up and down as required and worry when I think he has forgotten.

When I first visited India, the flights would consistently disappoint me – everything was fine, except for the total lack of in flight announcements. I was not even convinced that there was a pilot on board as there was complete and consistent silence from the cockpit on every single flight. I wondered if the cabin crew and auto pilot got the flight from A to B. I became resigned to this and gradually tempered my disappointment at the lack of information about my journey. Until one fine day, on a flight from Mumbai to Delhi, when I heard a crackle from the intercom and a male voice started to speak. There were no male cabin crew so I was immediately alert and puzzled. Sure enough, the voice said

“Ladies and gentlemen, this is your captain speaking”

Puzzlement turned to panic – there was clearly an emergency, hijack or some other terrible crisis. I sat anxiously while the Captain continued

“I am pleased to tell you that Pakistan is out for six and India has started to bat”.

Whereupon the whole plane load of passengers burst into applause, cheering and shouting while my panic returned to puzzlement.

This was my first experience of the importance of cricket in India. I had known it was important before but didn’t realise just how much. Since then other examples have consistently reinforced this.

In Delhi airport departure lounge, sitting quietly reading and waiting for my flight announcement I nearly jumped out of my skin when the whole place erupted in cheers and squeals of excitement. A few moments of disorientation later, I realised that a decisive move had taken place on the cricket match being screened in the lounge.

Delhi airport departure lounge two years later - walking into the lounge intending to buy a cup of tea, I was put off by the huge long queue. Approaching the coffee stall I realised that the queue stopped about six feet away from the stall – and consisted of a crowd fixed on the screen, yes, showing the test match live. Incidentally the crowd appeared to include a number of folks employed in various functions in the airport.

More recently, I spotted a group of men playing cricket at a playing field on the outskirts of Chennai – not unusual in itself, but they were clearly keen given that I was passing before 6 am!

And finally, recently relaxing at home very late one evening, I heard a massive explosion very nearby. Although there are some security incidents in the large cities, Chennai feels very safe, so I was saddened to hear the crashing sound. But it continued for ages, and it slowly dawned on me that this was no explosion but celebratory firecrackers on an unprecedented scale – the whole of the country was celebrating that India had won the ICC World Twenty20 Test Match in a nail biting final

So maybe I still don’t understand cricket and its rules, but I am very clear about one thing – cricket in India is top priority!

Hail storm in Chennai?

2007-09-27T18:20:00.000+05:30

This afternoon we heard the thunderous start of a downpour and a colleague and I ran to the window to breathe in the refreshing rains.

The rains started crashing down and more colleagues started rushing outside to see - and for many for the first time in their lives they saw HAILSTONES!

Astounding!

Happy news from the Darjeeling hills

2007-09-24T07:56:00.000+05:30

and the winner of Indian Idol 2007 is.......

PRASHANT TAMANG!!!

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/Kolkata/Fans_friends_celebrate_Tamangs_win/articleshow/2396325.cms

Phone calls and sms text messages pouring in gave the result a good two hours before the TV announcement - (I discovered that the Grand Finale was not quite live) - and Darjeeling was rocking and celebrating way into the night. Brilliant news!

vote Prashant - for Indian Idol 2007

2007-09-23T22:48:00.000+05:30

Apparently Darjeeling is going wild as I write this - Prashant TAMANG is in the final two of Indian Idol and being from Darj the place is going ballistic as the final is being screened...........

This takes me back over four months to when hubby J was away doing 11,111 korua (circumabulations round the stupa) in Belakyppe Gompa (Monastery), near Mysore. He phoned every day to give me the day's total and I would keep the tally. This was actually really important as J has a tendency to fast forward everything and fast forwarding korua would be really bad for his karma so I was circumambulation counter in charge! Increasing though, our telephone conversations became increasingly focused on Indian Idol which was gathering momentum even back in May. The funniest thing was that apparently the hot topic of discussion in the gompa was who to vote for that evening in Indian Idol and the lamas were all lobbying for their own favourite!! Apparently the evening korua was when the discussion reached its peak and when the air was filled with their om mane padme..... text 2525... om .....for prashant... mane padme......no, no vote for Amit .....om mane.... - what a wonderful image it conjured up!

So now that Prashant is in the final, (and we are Tamang) it would be pretty amazing and fitting if Prashant is indeed the winner..................

Pondy Proper

2007-09-14T19:42:00.000+05:30

As promised earlier, here are some impressions of Pondicherry.

Pondicherry is a Union Territory in India and was formerly a French Enclave. This means that the town of Pondicherry is a fascinating mix of India and France which can actually can verge on the disconcerting. However, it makes a lovely break and a total change from Chennai for a weekend away.

The architecture is distinctly French, and there is at least one French School (Lycee) and other signs of French Administration. the French Quarter feels quite Mediterranean and so the sight of autos, rickshaws and saris feels quite strange. The street signs are standard issue French street signs, in Tamil and French.

There are numerous vestiges of France transposed on top of typical life in India in evidence in Pondy. For example, the Ambassador car below, outside one of the heritage houses, complete with French Tamil Street sign.

The Policemen have funky bright red French style caps and uniforms.

At the seafront you can see Indians playing the French game of boules

But despite all these French features, it is definitely India! There are lots of giveaway signs - like this Temple elephant

Evening gossip and mango stalls on the seafront .

Bikes and bananas in peaceful co-existence.

and random shops selling organised rows of underwear.

Claim your free oxygen

2007-09-11T23:18:00.000+05:30

"In Pondicherreee"

Would be my suggested final line to round of the rhyming sign. Which incidentally, is where the sign is to be found!

Pondy Bazaar

2007-09-07T21:58:00.000+05:30

One of the best things about Chennai is Pondy Bazaar. I think it must be best possible shopping street in the world - where else in the world could you find a street lined with stalls, shops, roadside outlets - and even cars selling cuddly toys and tigers!!

..........flowers

anything you can ever imagine in stainless steel

All manner of fruits and vegetables, and even sugar cane

and don't worry if you don"t have a spot to sell your wares - just find a few bikes and set up stall on top off them.

I think you can probably get anything you could ever possibly need or want in Pondy Bazaar!

Pondy and Parachutes

2007-08-25T20:36:00.000+05:30

It has been a while again! More travels, and even more work - and the result is less blogging, despite more and more experiences and wonderful moments to share.

I had a great visit to Pondy Bazaar (fantastic shopping street in Chennai) with camera and my friend J who was visiting from Kathmandu. I had never been brave enough to take my camera before and snap away at the incredible sights there so her visit was a welcome opportunity for both of us. Then a visit to the real Pondicherry, and more sights. Immediately followed by a truly special and inspirational visit to the Andamans .......... and another month disappears.

On the negative side, I realise that taking technology for granted is akin to pride coming before a fall. I find myself unable to upload anything more than a zillionth of a minibyte in any 24 hour period and therefore I can't quite get the photos on the the site yet.

So here is a starter. J needed hair oil - and was given this, the latest, trendiest hair oil.....

"Parachute Hair Oil"

....... clearly for flyaway hair!

ok folks, so fasten your seatbelts and HOLD TIGHT!! Part One

2007-08-03T21:36:00.000+05:30

Ok folks, so fasten your seatbelts and HOLD TIGHT!! This has been a long long time coming! It is now over a month since i got back from Dhaka and I promised I had tales to tell. Mostly travel tales. So here we go….

Let’s start at the very beginning…. And we did! Our flight to Calcutta from Chennai left at an unbelievable 5.45 am. Why? A very good question. And one I don’t have an easy answer for. Or any answer for. My colleague’ B’s daughter put it beautifully. At 04:15 am she told B “Ippa poga venam Ozhunga morning aana udane po!”. Don’t go now! “Go when it is proper morning” The little girl insists to B that wherever she goes and however early it be, she should not leave while she is sleeping. She tells B “Wake me, brush my hair and teeth and bathe me without disturbing my sleep”. A wise young girl - even with a two hour flight we arrived in Calcutta airport before 7 am. Our flight had been pretty turbulent and at one stage even the crew looked alarmed when ordered to stop serving and "SIT DOWN NOW"! One air stewardess threw herself into the nearest seat to her own alarm and that of all those who could see her. Nonetheless, turbulence allowed our eventual pre daybreak arrival in Calcutta. Our connection on to Dhaka left at 14.10 according to schedule. Schedule was late. We checked in to the airport “lodging facility” and waited until we could check in. And there began drama Number 1.

We checked in for our flight – at last! After a long and strangely time extended wait in the “holding rooms”. We noted that our flight was actually late because of the incoming flight from London. I didn’t think anything of if. But I should have! Why would a long haul international incoming flight delay impact on our little 28 minute hop over to Dhaka? A VALID question……………albeit in hindsight. To be fair my attention was diverted by a huge and unexpected drama at immigration. I had calmly produced my papers with my usual “best smile” and was not surprised when I was asked for my Registration documents. No problem. I continued my smile. I am a cool wee law abiding citizen, and I had all my registration, immigration and any other papers all in order. The immigration man was indeed happy – and so was I. Until he mentioned in passing, that all was in order, and that I was very welcome to stay in India (my extension papers noted a stay extension) but that I could not return to India on the same visa. WHAT????? I mentioned (equally in passing) that I was going to Bangladesh for work reasons and would be returning to India in a few day‘s time. Fine he said. Make it before the 26 June (my departure was 24 June -return on 29 June) and there will be no problem. Well fine – I should leave the day after I arrive - the day my work starts then? Yep. Oh shit@!!!! In my gentlest and humblest fashion, I tried explaining that the immigration officials I had dealt with had very clearly reassured me that I would still have multiple exit and entry facilities on my stay/visa extension. If there was a problem then the best solution was that I do not in fact leave India and should return to Chennai. However, finally he spoke with his big big boss. And went off to get my papers signed by the very very big boss to confirm that I could in fact return to India and that my papers were valid. Yes, I could not only leave India, but I was also entitled to return and would have a stamp and signature to confirm this. Fantastic! So finally I passed through immigration and on to the departure lounge. Then I made the mistake of looking at my documentation. All it said was that I had left India on the said date!!!! Oh well too late now for action – just enough for worry, my best skill! To my amazement, as I passed into the departure lounge I saw a familiar face – a pal, C, from Kathmandu! To the astonishment of my colleagues we exchanged kisses, hugs and fond and simultaneous hellos and farewells as they were heading on the Kathmandu flight. My attention diverted, I did not realise that our flight was becoming more and more delayed…..

Finally, we realised that our flight (incoming London flight) had not only arrived, but was ready to depart. So finally we walked through the walkway and onto – a HUGE AIRBUS!!! Not what we expected for the 28 minute hop to Dhaka. OK, so I expected a small aircraft and a few passengers – to match to small, motley crew waiting in the departure lounge. So where did all these people come from on this HUUUUUUGE plane? We were on a really big airbus and after a half kilometre walk through the aircraft to the rear of the plane, we arrived at our seats. The plane was like a disaster zone. It was filthy and totally chaotic. Firstly we had to gently ask a sleeping family to move so we could sit down in the seats allocated to us. They had been travelling (as had most of the plane’s passengers) since London and they were tired, fractious and not amused at having to move for the last few minutes of their flight. Furthermore they had been on the ground for around three hours waiting for the motley group of passengers for this final leg to Dhaka. They found their original seats, and other passengers tossed aside blankets and looked for their belongings and mobile phones stowed safely the previous day in Europe.

Finally we all seemed to find our seats and settle for our onward short flight. And in this settled state we had an interesting surprise. Still on the ground and as the “fasten your seatbelts” and “prepare for departure” announcements were made we had an amazing surprise. The crew made its way hurriedly down the plane – SERVING THE IN FLIGHT MEAL!” seriously. This really was something totally new to me. So do we stow our trays or try to eat off them?? Doesn’t matter – just hurry up and EAT!!!! So we did. We stuffed the sandwich and cake down our throats, put our juice in the pocket and as the crew swept down the aisle collecting the trays only a few moments after distributing them, we were checked for seat belts being fastened and tray tables stowed as the lane careered towards the runway for take off.

S o that was interesting? Well not enough. Now it started to get really interesting…. The staff were clearly pretty exhausted and stressed after the overnight and long haul flight. Oh – and grumpy! I can’t blame them and I am glad I don’t have to do their job. So I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry when the farce called take off unrolled. The crew were by this time at their stations for take off. Fine. Just a pity the passengers weren’t! Have you EVER been on a flight when passengers were standing in the aisle when the plane has COMPLETED its taxi to the take off runway? (It happened to me once in Nepal but that is another story – equally scary). Did I say passengers? Yep. And did I mention one particular passenger in the aisle standing upright – at take off – WITH A BABY ON HIS SHOULDER?

Now it starts to get really scary right? By this time the plane was accelerating and preparing for take off – the crew were screaming at all passengers to sit down and we were all trying to finish off our in flight (pre-flight meal) from our seat pockets…………… By some miracle dad sat down – with the wee one in his lap ( we are all sweating and screaming by this point) just in the nanoseconds leading up to take off. Maybe it was just a bit uncomfortable standing in the aisle while the plane is careering down the runway at full speed, maybe he heard the screams of the crew. Whatever the case he sat down and we all breathed a huge sigh of relief. Finally the plane took off and once the ding dong allowed the cabin crew to leave their stations they all descended on naughty dad. They screamed at him and admonished him for not sitting down. But nobody seemed to really care. Everyone (except a small minority of us) had been travelling all night, then were treated to a three hour stopover at Calcutta /Kolkotta Airport. The final 28 minutes into Dhaka were an inconvenience and not to be taken seriously – by passengers or crew – just had to be suffered until final arrival. (Luckily the flight crew seemed to take it very seriously and I sincerely hope they were protected from the soap opera inside the cabin). This was very clear by the announcement welcoming us to Dhaka which consistently (in Bangla, Hindi and English announced our flight arrival time inaccurately by 2 hours and 30 minutes).

SO - WELCOME TO DHAKA............................

PS –the Nepal story – I was flying in to Pokhara airport a few years ago – a regular if spectacular but pretty scary journey of 22 minutes by air or 8 hours by road. One foreigner had boarded the 19 seater craft and not taken his seat for take off. He set up his video or whatever camera on a tripod. In the aisle of the 19 seater?!? We asked him to sit down for take off. His reply? He said he had got “special permission” from the pilot to remain standing and film take off. That was one of the most stupid and selfish acts I have ever seen. I hope his footage was good because his selfishness placed the crew and fellow passengers at considerable risk. As the plane ascended rapidly at take off he was lucky to retain control of his equipment – and we were lucky not to be caught up in his private and selfish act. I tell myself I would do things differently now – I am a few years older and should be a little wiser. I hope I would have the courage to tackle this selfishness and reckless behaviour………..

Pool chatting

2007-08-03T19:59:00.000+05:30

Maybe I didn’t solve the boat chatting riddle – but I think I have discovered a new sport.

I was enjoying my swim the other evening, sharing the pool only with one other person. This time my fellow swimmer was a young woman, accompanied by another woman who looked after her towel, locker key and mobile phone while she was in the pool. Well for the first ten or fifteen minutes she did that. Then the mobile phone rang, the girl handed it to my co-swimmer, who spent the remaining time that I was in the pool (more than twenty minutes) standing in the water, bathing cap and goggles on while she chatted on her phone!!!

Never mind boat chatting – anyone for pool chatting?!

Feeling blue? Or in the pink?

2007-08-03T19:15:00.000+05:30

When I worked in Nepal I went through a phase where I thought I was losing it. There were the prettiest flowers on a bush outside the meeting room window of our office, and I could never remember if they were blue or pink.

One day I could stand it no longer and asked a totally bemused colleague, "What colour are those flowers?" He looked at me in a manner which was delivered in an understandably patient and delicate way - the way you would deal with a child learning their colours or a very elderly relative, and he said - "They are blue"

I saw these flowers on the way to work the other morning here in Chennai- the same flowers and they were also blue.

However this time, I knew what was coming. I took this picture to show that they are blue. Then on the way home I took another photo of the same flowers, in the fading daylight. In Nepal I had dragged my colleague back into the meeting room later that same afternoon and demanded - "Now what colour are the flowers?"

I could see his patience wear thin until he looked out of the window and his face crumpled in puzzlement - "They are - PINK?" And they were! So now I knew for sure that these amazing flowers start the day blue and by the end of the afternoon they are pink. I have no idea (yet) whether they suddenly change at some magic hour, or if gradually as the day progresses, they transform into pink flowers!

But they do in Kathmandu and they do in Chennai! Any explanations?

2007-07-20T21:26:00.000+05:30

Nature at its most spectacular - during the rainy season the Andamans are lashed with thunder, lightning, winds and torrential rains - you can just about hear the lush green vegetation squeaking with delight! And this is what it looks like when the sun shines.

Calm evening over Phoenix Bay.

So what exactly is ......

2007-07-20T20:01:00.000+05:30

.........boat chatting??

This is completely beyond me, and those I have asked.

Any suggestions?

Getting over it

2007-07-15T22:12:00.000+05:30

I love Indian English – there is always an elegant and often quaint way of expressing yourself and always a new gem. For example, I am no longer puzzled when I am asked to “open my shoes” and I know to take my shoes off.

Living in the south has some brought some wonderful new examples for me. Levels of English are very high here and I still smile when I remember, just after our arrival in Chennai, overhearing two elderly gents having a disagreement in the street. "..........yes, but sir, that is not MY botheration..............."

However, yesterday I realised that sometimes our English is not easy to understand unless we use certain expressions. My cooking gas cylinder has run out of gas and I spoke to the landlady, who handles these things for her tenants. Her English is excellent and it makes our life very easy. So I was not prepared for the blank look when I told her that the gas was finished. So I tried again

“The gas cylinder – it is empty”

Still confusion.

“Erm – cylinder has no gas” (struggle, struggle)

“you know cooking not possible”. By now I was miming cooking actions…….

And in final desperation,

“Gas illeh” (I am not sure how it is spelt but illeh means ‘no’ or ‘ there isn't any’ in Tamil).

Finally she smiled - “you mean the gas is getting over?” she asked me simply, clearly wondering, why on earth I had not just said that.

“Yes, yes!” I said “yes, the gas is getting over”.

Next time I will know to say that the gas is getting over, and try not to wonder - getting over what? A serious illness? A broken relationship? Or just getting over itself?

New swimming style

2007-07-15T21:35:00.000+05:30

Part of my recovery strategy is to build up my strength and stamina through swimming which I love. So tonight I ventured out to the nearby hotel where I often luxuriate in a long swim and was delighted to find that the pool was completely empty - marvellous! After my recent tummy troubles however, I found that an old back injury was giving a little twinge so to ensure that I didn't aggravate it I experimented to find a swimming style which would work the right muscles. After all you can't pay 200 rupees and then find you can't swim - no Scot could allow that. I am not a crawl person - you can't keep your head above water and your glasses on for that so that one was out of the question, similarly butterfly is not my scene either. So I very quickly settled in to a steady and gentle breast stroke with the arms and a kind of crawl movement with the feet. Perfect - no aggravation, no waste of rupees and steady building of strength and stamina.

But as I was swimming up and down the pool, I started to wonder what this amazing new stroke would be called? I thought it should be either the crest or the brawl being a hybrid of breast and crawl. Given the dignified nature and steady sight I felt I must be, I decided on the crest - how elegant and flowing. And besides I see so many examples in the pool of the other stroke - the macho guys ploughing up and down, arms and legs everywhere, splashing water from one side to the other and managing to take up the whole pool. This so closely resembles a one man fight in a swimming pool it just has to be called the brawl!

Off the radar

2007-07-14T23:40:00.000+05:30

Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear!

Well there I was, catching up with everything since my Bangladesh visit, mulling over the wealth of airline and flying anecdotes to share here, when I was totally grounded! After several weeks of general dodginess in the gastro-enteral (enteric? well you know where I mean) region, I finally succumbed to some really spectacular lurgey and was totally off the screen, too sick initially to face going to the doctor, can you imagine! (And to be honest with too great a dependency on my own familiar bathroom). Now I have some wonderfully foul tasting and equally spectacular horse pills to tackle both sets of visitors which had taken up residence and are now in the process of eviction.

That is why there has been no word from FBG.

The good news is that these pills might taste disgusting but they seem to be doing the trick as I am already feeling much better and the energy levels restoring nicely.

So another game of catch up beckons, which includes the imminent posting of travel tips including "how to stay upright with a sleeping child on your shoulder during take-off" and "the advantages of serving in-flight catering before take-off".

More very soon from the temporarily fusty green sicko.

Blue moon

2007-06-30T20:11:00.000+05:30

I have just learned something really interesting! Just sitting here catching up on e-mails I spotted the moon shining through the trees outside the balcony. It looked like full moon but to check for sure I googled it - and got more than I expected. Not only is today full moon - it is also a blue moon! Apparently there really is an astrological phenomenon (unpronounceable one too!) - bear with me if I am last on the planet to discover this - called a blue moon.

According to the Hindu News, June 30 is ‘blue moon’ day

HYDERABAD: This month will witness an uncommon occurrence of two full moons. While the first full moon occurred on June 1, there will be another on June 30.When such an event occurs, the second full moon is called the ‘blue moon’ due to the uncommon happening and not because the moon in any way turns blue, according to B.G. Sidharth, Director-General, B.M. Birla Science Centre.In a press release on Wednesday, he said a ‘blue moon’ month occurs once in a few years and at times in about 12 years.

Apparently there are many more technical details, but that is enough for me. Enlightened blue gecko!

Dhaka - a preview

2007-06-30T18:50:00.000+05:30

I arrived back safely late last night from a very intense and interesting week in Dhaka. While I am preparing my thoughts and experiences (including a disproportionate number of air travel tales) I thought I would post this picture from of the sunset the first evening I arrived.

The ironing shop

2007-06-23T19:18:00.000+05:30

My friend, neighbour and colleague B was leaving Chennai recently as her assignment here was completed. Packing was the usual nightmare and to take belongings and clothes back luggage was way over the airline weight allowance. Gifts were given, and anything which really had no possible further use went out in the rubbish. Included in the rubbish was a bag of old clothes which had well outlived their usefulness. We arrived back from work together that evening – and we were met by a smiling watchman who handed B a mystery carrier bag, asking for 25 rupees. He couldn’t understand our blank faces and we couldn’t understand what on earth this was all about. B peeked into the bag and was instantly enlightened. All of her discarded old clothes had been sent to the ironing shop, by the proactive watchman, ironed on credit, and returned to her within the day!!

So what is this ironing shop? When we arrived in Chennai we learned that there is a specific local industry which takes care of all ironing and removes the hassle and time consuming mind-numbing task from the day to day chores. Ironing is immediately outsourced to – the ironing shop! On most streets in the residential areas, there is at least one stall, set on what looks like large bicycle wheels, surrounded by bundles of laundry and with a huge non electrical iron. For around 2 - 3 rupees per item, your ironing is completely taken care of at the ironing shop and everybody is happy.

On sharing B's lovely tale with a friend in the Netherlands, who is also Indian, she observed that in Europe you have to wash and clean your rubbish before you throw it out! Only in India does your discarded rubbish come back to you all fresh and ironed!

Weather report

2007-06-15T20:59:00.000+05:30

This is not just a weather report - this is NEWS!

I was woken in the middle of the night (well, 4 am which here is morning but for me is the middle of the night), by a sound which I could not quite identify at first. Then I realised it was the sound of - RAIN!! How exciting. You have to have lived out of Scotland and in a place like Chennai for a while to appreciate the excitement of this. Since I arrived in Chennai at the beginning of January I have seen it rain only three times. Yes, 3. Added to which, we apparently get the retreating monsoon here which arrives late in the year, unlike most other parts of India and Nepal where I am more familiar with the monsoon patterns.

Anyway, in the middle of the night, as I was slowly getting used to the idea of rain, I was treated to a full performance from the elements. Crashing thunder, simultaneous lightning which lit up the bedroom long enough to have a surreal photographic impression in my mind, and the torrential rain. The electricity cut and the fan slowed and stopped which is usually a nightmare in the heat and humidity. However, the silence brought an intensity and immediacy to the storm. I listened as it approached a crescendo and then slowly faded. The lightning became less vivid and dazzling, and the thunder slowed in its response as the storm either disappeared or moved on to another part of the city. Before long the electricity and fan resumed as if it had all been a strange dream.

When it was time to start the day the roads were still soaking, the puddles full of leaves and blossom and the talk on everyone's lips was of the night storm. Later, in the middle of the afternoon, another murmur of excitement began and smiling faces announced that it was raining again. This warranted a look outside and a number of us gathered to watch the rain and breathe in the cooler air for a quick refreshing break before we resumed our tasks.

The rain cannot begin to compare with the constant reliability of Scottish rain, and the storm is tame in comparison with the incredible electric storms which were part of life in Nepal. But this night time storm brought real vibrancy and life to the new day. Now I wait in anticipation for the REAL rains to start later in the year.

More marketing

2007-06-08T21:17:00.000+05:30

Would you be tempted to go to this beauty salon?

First of many...........

2007-06-08T20:27:00.000+05:30

I am sure this will be the first of many similar posts. I can't resist signs which make me smile, laugh out loud, cringe or wonder what on earth they mean. Some signs prompt all reactions! In Nepal I also used to collect newspaper headlines and cuttings with wonderful epxressions in them - one of my favourites was the headline "Vegetable farming yields fruit" How on earth did that happen?? Genetic modification? Miracle? ........?? I still have the little scrap book with these gems and will share them here from time to time.

Now moving to the present. We were in Bangalore recently and I was rather alarmed (and curious) to see this sign. in one of the streets...............

Luckily J was able to enlighten me - it means ear piercing done here, by an ear piercing machine!!

A very good sales tactic

So that will be no sugar and no ice?

2007-06-07T07:56:00.000+05:30

One of the things I love about India and Nepal is the incredible creativity when it comes to different jobs, how to repair absolutely anything and how to make something out of apparent rubbish.

Sometimes in the juice shop I have noticed a man bashing an inner tube on the pavement beside the shop and to be honest I hadn’t actually thought anything strange of it. I just thought that was his job. I had a vague notion that he was bashing the air out of the inner tube.

This morning I was mindlessly consuming my watermelon juice and out of the corner of my eye noticed one of the juice shop workers extracting two huge blocks of ice from a cold box. My attention woken, I watched as slipped the blocks inside half of an inner tube and started to bash it with a metal pipe. I hadn’t noticed before that it was not a complete inner tube because it had been folded at the ends so that no ice escaped. After a few minutes of bashing, the crushed ice was emptied back into the ice box ready for the next customers. “ice with your watermelon juice, madam? – “er, not today thank you!”

Southern squirrels

2007-06-02T09:57:00.000+05:30

What noise does a squirrel make?

I have been woken up a few times now by an insistent tooting noise, which sounds like quite an angry bird. Finally, a few weeks ago, I crawled out of bed and tried to locate this strange exotic and harmonious bird. There are a number of trees outside my balcony and I could hear the noise quite close by when I opened the patio windows. Searching for the elusive bird I was faced by ............................

A cute wee squirrel saying “toot toot toot”. Seriously and honestly. And not just the one. It seems to be clear that squirrels in Chennai, if not throughout the whole of South India, say “toot toot”. I thought about this very carefully and considered my why the issue of squirrel sounds was troubling me. I realised that the problem lay in the expectation that squirrels would say something more like a throaty kind of tut tut or chirrup chirrup. I think a PhD dissertation on the language of squirrels is needed.

I thought that this needed an expert opinion so I asked hubby J, as a professional naturalist in Nepal and north India. After some thought and consideration his opinion was that “squirrels in the north (of India), and Nepal don‘t talk”. Now isn’t that a highly interesting anthropological and linguistic mystery? Would it not be amazing to get a mixed group of squirrels from South India, North India and Edinburgh together and see if they can understand each other..................

The high road? Or the low road?? Aah – the shady road!

2007-05-26T23:08:00.000+05:30

So what is it really like to live in Chennai? Unsurprisingly this will be an ongoing theme and will be added to whenever I feel like sharing the latest warming moment.

Apologies for repetitions here as I have been talking about this for some time through e-mails. Now it is time to start to bring it all together. This month (well the period from 4 to 29 May to be precise) is known in Tamil as Kathiri or Fire Star month. That is because it is hot! Hot is in the low to mid 40sC. All I can say is – it is so hot even the AC (which I usually try to do minimise) can only get down to 27 C. If I go from the bedroom (at 27C) to the living room I feel as if I have walked from the fridge to the oven, and even the other side of the door is hot to the touch. When I was moaning recently about the heat, I was reminded me that 27 C is considered heating, not cooling in Scotland!!

To show how I understood about the fire star month, I thought I would show off one of my 7 words of Tamil to a colleague. I said (I thought) – “well it is the fire star month isn’t it”? She looked at me – shocked and aghast – I thought – my goodness I have really astounded her with my amazing linguistic abilities. It transpired that I had told her to “shut up” which is why she was so shocked!

The reality of fire star month is that it is so hot that it is even hard to walk to work. I live a 10 minute walk away from the office, and I usually consider this not enough of a walk. However, I have to lug my work stuff and before I have even got to the gate of the building I live, I have decided it is too hot (again!) to walk. To be fair, I do try anew every new day.

Actually I find hard not being able to walk. I live on the same street (but at the other end) as the office and when I do walk, I take the longer way. It is about 4 minutes longer and I do this for a few reasons:

1. instead of being on the busier road it takes me through leafy pleasant side streets – which are also shaded.

2. the pavements in Chennai are pretty amazing – especially if you are not exactly tall. They are higher than my knees and no sooner than I have clambered up on one pavement than I have to descend again, only to have to climb again a few seconds later. My longer route minimises pavement interaction and saves me from suffering altitude sickness before I reach work
3. the road is easier to cross when I don’t cross at the main junction. This means that I save the extra few minutes on the longer route as I actually spend so long pathetically dithering at the roadside. This dithering is exacerbated by the line of auto drivers who are convinced that I am waiting for their auto to take me the 37 yards to the office.
4. The juice shop. The wonderful, delicious juice shop. If I take the longer route then I can stop at the stall which sells freshly squeezed any fruit for between 10 and 15 rupees (we are talking less than 20 pence and maybe 30 cents) which provides the perfect nutritional boost before I start work. I usually take two! That is also two fruit portions – which for 20 rupees for a Scot is not scarily healthy and represents exceptional value for money!! It is vital that I remember though to ask for no sugar – otherwise a cup full of sugar is tipped into the mixture before my eyes, which must counteract the nutritional benefits. This, however, has been complicated a little by the opening of another juice shop two doors away from my home. And they have a kind of happy hour deal. Buy one (half a litre) get half free. How irresistible is that?? So I can sit with my ¾ litre of watermelon juice for 10 rupees and then take my lovely shaded route to work.

So that is why I take the longer route to work on cooler days……………oh I forgot to mention the squirrels………

to the other extreme...

2007-05-06T15:52:00.000+05:30

From the most southerly point and the remote Andamans I then headed north to Darjeeling for family rituals. I don’t think my case actually got unpacked properly, rather I swapped the cooler cottons for warmer clothes and ran straight from a meeting to Chennai airport again!

I had to stay overnight in Kolkotta or Calcutta, whichever you prefer, before the connection the next morning to Siliguri and then car up to Mirik. I was soon in Mirik itself, just in time for the funeral rituals I had travelled for, and straight into the gompa (prayer room) and the lamas and family chanting. It was an emotional return and I was glad to be there at the right time.

Once the key rituals were complete I had a very welcome cup of tea and then compulsory food, Nepali style.

I love Mirik. It is a really pretty hill station, not on the main tourist trail, but most of all it reminds me intensely of Scotland, particularly rural Perthshire where I grew up. The pine forests and lake (it should be a loch!) shrouded in mist are incredibly reminiscent of Scotland, and even the Buddhist Monastery on the hill, rolling tea green gardens, orange plantations and cardamom fields can’t take that impression away.

We spent a few days in Mirik, walking, visiting family, spending time at the Monastery and generally soaking in the very different surroundings to the South. The weather was so much cooler than Chennai - but then Mirik is 5,700 feet above sea level and Chennai is hardly any feet above sea level!

Young lamas rushing as they were late for the puja (rituals) and a little lama struggling with his robes and being helped by a senior lama

From Mirik, we headed to Darjeeling to see more relatives for two days before we had to return south. The road from Mirik to Darj (as it is known) is a lovely route, a kind of back road north. It skirts alongside the Nepal border and we pass villages where the house is in India and the outside toilet is the other side of the white stone border marker so located in Nepal.

Our time in Darjeeling was restful, if packed, and we met up unexpectedly with friends from Nepal which was lovely.

Darjeeling keeps itself in a time warp and the town itself has an attitude, rightly proud! The famous toy train tracks twist alongside the road, houses and shops all the way from the flat terain, and the trcks are used ingeniously to transport water, chickens and whatever is needed when there is no train there.

The last day saw us travel from 8,000 feet - up in the clouds, back via Siliguri and Calcutta/Kolkotta to Chennai. We arrived late in the evening, walking off the plane into the heat and humidity whch is with us now until the rains arrive.

And there is no sign of rain .........................

Whirlwind

2007-05-04T15:39:00.000+05:30

April disappeared in a complete whirlwind, and with it I am not sure how many miles or kilometres. Then I blinked and May is disappearing too. So sit tight while I put it all together ………………………..

The southernmost tip of India is Cape Comorin at Kanyakumari and is renown as the point where three oceans meet – the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea. At this spot crowds gather every year in to greet the monsoon as it reaches India. It is also a part of the coast where the tsunami struck really badly, particularly from Kanyakumari along the southern coast up towards Trivandrum.

My trip to KK (as it is called) started with a dash to the train station to catch the evening train from Chennai. Evening starts quite early here and I have even heard 4 pm called evening. My train was at a respectable 5.25 pm and as I settled into my berth I phoned my colleagues who had left the evening before, to confirm I was on my way. I had that comfortable feeling you have when you know you are getting off at the final stop so no worries about delays and recognising the right station. Until I was told that I had to alight half an hour before KK town itself at a place called something I couldn’t make out. Finally we worked out that it was Nagercoil and that I would reach around 6 the following morning. Just as well I had phoned!

The journey was pleasant – particularly as I was reading a book set on the Bangalore express to Kanyakumari, and also because the TT (Ticket T-something) official told me I could sleep in the lower berth – seeming because of my age – well thank you anyway! Rather more comfortable!

We rolled into a station just before 6 in the morning, and my anxiety started me thinking this was my stop, even though it was well before the due time. It was still dark, but within a few minutes the sky was becoming lighter and turning pink. I could make out hills which rather surprised me, and a forest of windmills – of all different sizes. The landscape really surprised me – I had expected flat land and this was lush paddy, palm trees and the lower part of the Easter Ghats range.

Our work took us to many of the tsunami affected villages over the following two days, but the context was very different to Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh.

My colleagues returned to Chennai and I stayed on for further discussions, returning back via Trivandrum a day later. On the way back we stopped off at Kovalam Beach and I was treated to

one of my favourite sights in India – swimming and paddling fully clad. It is lovely to watch people having such fun in the water, and of course modesty is totally maintained for the Indian context.

Then back to Chennai to sit my wee suitcase in the corner of the bedroom for two days before it headed off again………..

are you sitting comfortably? Andaman Islands revisited

2007-04-14T19:44:00.000+05:30

Saturday 14 April
Well, sitting back in Port Blair, again with my idyllic view, the sounds of mynah birds singing, the fan whirring and the foghorns of the boat traffic coming in and out of the harbour, it is time to reflect on the past two days………………….

……………..We left Port Blair mid morning Thursday 12 April after a very thorough and helpful briefing about travelling through the tribal areas and meeting up with the others I would be travelling with.

Tribal briefing

§ Strictly no photography in the tribal territories
§ If you see Jarawa people do not attempt to take or exchange any items with them
§ Keep inside the vehicle at all times
§ Jarawa people and their behaviour are unpredictable – do not enter into discussions
§ If you do pass Jarawa people, please be aware that they are usually naked, children, adults, male and female.
§ Travel is through 2 restricted areas, bounded by checkposts
§ Travel is only permitted through the tribal territory in convoy with police at head and tail of the convoy

We left the main town and travelled past the airport to the Junglighat area of Port Blair. Within a few minutes a shocking sight was unfolding before my eyes. Flooded land with houses sitting in the water and a sinister forest landscape of dead trees jutting out of the water.

This land was highly affected by the earthquake and tsunami. The earthquake had caused the island to tilt and this area was now below sea level and very near to the sea inlet. Thus, when the tsunami came, these areas were flooded by the saline sea water which had killed the trees and destroyed the land.

This was soon a memory as we drove through winding jungle with anticipation rising until we reached the check post which marks the start of the tribal area. We had left Port Blair with the intention of connecting with the 12.30 convoy and reached in nice time before the scheduled departure time. My passport was produced and papers checked for passing through the territory. At 12.30 the barrier was lifted and the vehicles started up, directed into position by the young lad in charge of telling cars which order to move in.

One colleague was particularly well informed about the Jarawa and another had never passed through the area before so was very excited. Our colleague told me cryptically “luckily we may see Jarawa”. I never worked out exactly what this meant, but it seemed to mean that if we were lucky we might see them. However, apparently tourists sometimes hire a jeep to travel up to Bharatang and back and do not see a single Jarawa. It felt very like setting out on a jungle safari in Chitwan National Park (Nepal) knowing that if we were very lucky we might perhaps see a tiger, but far more likely would be a drive with eyes constantly peeled, through stunning scenery only to approach the end of the drive with a feeling of last ditch desperation mingling with heightened anticipation just in case a last minute sighting would materialise - (a bit like watching a Scotland football match with the minutes approaching full time and we still need a goal to win!) I never did spot a tiger in Chitwan, so would I be any luckier in Jarawa territory?

At the checkpost we joined the other ten or so vehicles which would form the convoy. The front of the convoy is a government vehicle showing a red flag (apparently a sign that we are travelling in peace – interesting symbol) and two armed police from the special Jarawa Protection Forces. The same at the rear without the flag. Quite what the guns are for, I wasn’t really sure – apparently the Jarawa are so isolated have so little interaction with people outside their tribe their behaviour is unpredictable and although they are apparently not hostile, not enough is known to be certain that any encounter would be peaceful.

The road which leads north from Port Blair, through South Andaman, Middle Andaman and up to north Andaman is called the Great Andaman Trunk road – and is the source of controversy because it travels right through the Jarawa territory. That is another whole discussion – which is not one I am going to explore now. From the name of the road it sounds as if it would be a wide sweeping road – in my mind something like the A9 (the main northern road artery in Scotland). The trunk road however, is a narrow, albeit hard topped, trail which twists and turns through the jungle, and the convoy snakes slowly through it at a maximum speed of 40 kilometres an hour. Stopping and overtaking are strictly prohibited, as is any photography – now maybe that is what the guns are for! Despite my constant urge to capture these sights to share, the camera stayed safely unopened throughout the prohibited areas. Travel through the major part of the tribal territory takes around one and a half hours and throughout my colleague was telling me about the Jarawa.

We carried on twisting and turning through the jungle as the minutes ticked on and over half way through the journey I had seen no more than a very shiny blue bird with a funny appearance of a peaked cap. The jungle was clearly suffering from a longer dry period than normal, and although still green and lush there were areas of parched bamboo and dusty creepers. My concentration was broken by my colleague’s call of “look, look – Jarawa hut!”. Where?? I looked right and left – in front and behind – and had missed it! I wasn’t just disappointed – I was cross with myself too. If this was our only sighting then I hadn’t even managed to see it. At least in Chitwan I saw prints of the elusive tiger (nothing special – everyone saw the prints, hardly anyone saw the tiger). A few moments later, on my side I caught sight of a small hut – rounded and on a small platform and shrouded with palm branches. Was that a Jarawa hut? – apparently yes! I could live with myself again. Before I could sit back and let the image sink in another call – “look, look – Jarawa!” At the side of the road were three children – one on my side and two on the other side. Only one had any covering – no clothes but what looked like a scanty, red coloured grass skirt. They all had some markings on their arms. Now my questions started in earnest. The covering was apparently made of a kind of twine and dyed red with flowers. The markings on their skin were a mud covering possible to protect from the harsh sun and again coloured with the red flower dye. Apparently red is the Jarawa’s favourite colour and tales tell of Jarawa taking items of red clothing when there has been limited interaction with non Jarawas. I was reminded how lucky I was – many see no glimpse of Jarawa and I had most definitely been very fortunate, when another call came – another two young Jarawa girls one on either side of the road. Again we were unable to slow down so had to capture the image in my own memory. The girl on my side had a smile and open expression which remains in my mind even now.

Discussion with my colleague filled in many details and insights into the little that is known about the Jarawa.

They are a fascinating people – separate from any development and hunter gatherers living totally off the land and sea. They hunt with bows and arrows and eat pig and fish. The spear-like arrows are used for fishing as well as hunting. Despite a wealth of deer in the forests they do not eat deer. Their social customs and systems remain a mystery and their language seems unconnected with any of the region. However, little is known and even this knowledge is fairly shallow and little documented. Their marriage systems, social organisation and leadership is a mystery. My colleague also told me that the men have no facial hair – he suggested that there is a minor DNA difference with other races. The appearance of the Jarawa is decidedly African - short, tightly curled hair and round structured faces. The Jarawa use plants and herbs for their medical needs and treatments and their isolation and pure diet has protected them from many diseases, although mortality rates are apparently high. Until around 4 years ago there was virtually no contact and Jarawa were still hostile. Now with the building of the road, some limited interaction and curiosity in their tribe brings an apparent uncertainty about the dilemman of how to support the Jarawa while preserving their culture and identity and maintaining their isolation.

There are a number of tribal groups on the Andaman and Nicobar islands, and without digressing too far, it is interesting to note the total isolation of the Sentinelese specifically. They occupy an island to the western part of the island chain and are completely hostile to outsiders. Any attempts at contact are met with lethal arrows!

We soon approached the jetty where we would cross to Bharatang island, and the end of the convoy for this portion of the journey and got out of the jeep for the ferry crossing. As we waited in the bamboo hut waiting room perched a couple of feet above the water and reached by a shaky walkway, conversation was animated and focused on our good fortune, miles better than spotting the tiger and scoring the needed goal!

The journey continued north, firstly by the short ferry crossing to Bharatang island and the start of Middle Andaman..................................................

.................. and passing through villages settled by the Ranchi people, before coming to another ferry and crossing to the next part of the island chain. The Ranchi are originally from Jharkhand state of the Indian mainland and had been re-located as forestry workers. The Ranchi are marginalised particularly as they were tribal in their original place, but having been moved to the Andamans they are not classed as tribal as they are not indigenous to the islands. Within the space of a few kilometres this demonstrated the rich and complex diversity of the islands. We crossed again by small ferry and continued the road northwards through another Jarawa protected area, a shorter journey this time. This area is reachable by boat from a promontory which bypasses Bharatang.

Our main encounter this time was with a heavy and welcomed rainstorm, bringing an instant infusion of life and vitality to the vegetation, as well as a complete rainbow arc. In Buddhist belief the rainbow is a blessing from Guru Ringpoche so I felt particularly blessed and protected as we continued our journey north.

We arrived safely in Rangat where our work awaited us and after a long and full day we finally rested for the night.

The next morning saw a dawn start for our journey and as the sun was rising above the hillside we set off again. Our timing for the first convoy at the northern part of Jarawa territory meant a half hour wait at the checkpoint for the seven o clock convoy. In this part of the territory, we were treated to morning jungle chorus of birds, crickets and the rich sound of the heavy damp atmosphere and the dew dripping from the vegetation.

We crossed on the first ferry to Bharatang island, as the heat was steadily rising. We stopped for fresh coconut at the other side. Our coconut trader sliced the top of four coconuts and inserted a straw for us to drink down the fresh, sweet juice of the fruit. Then when this was finished, we handed back the shell, which he then chopped in half, slicing through one side seemingly for good measure. Good measure was actually a natural spoon which enabled us to scoop out the flesh – delicious! With a chin sticky from the juice our journey continued across Bharatang island for our work on the southern part of the island.

The timing gods were again playing with us and we learned that we had over two hours to wait for the convoy on the other side of the island once the work was finished. So we began the great Indian skill of “timepass”. This involves all sorts of activities or lack of activity to while away time. It can include changing the ring tones on your phone, drinking tea, eating samosas and crisps, and drinking more tea. For foreigners – of which I was the only I had spotted throughout the whole trip, it also includes finding spots of shade as you realise the sun has crept through to your skin again.

After our excitement of the previous day, I was pretty relaxed starting our journey back through the Jarawa territory – no pressure to try and spot the tribal people, though I soon realised that it didn’t stop me travelling with eyes searching. My two travelling companions soon succumbed to the early start and were quickly lolling around in their seats oblivious to our surroundings. We passed the places where we had seen the Jarawa the previous day and I felt the prickly sensation of disappointment despite myself. Within ten minutes however, I saw two young Jarawa girls, one on either side of the road, waiting patiently while the convoy passed through. One companion had wakened and asked our expert if he had seen them – no he had slept through the excitement! Not much further through the jungle and we came to a river crossing where a bridge had been built, and I noticed two figures sitting on the bridge – two young Jarawa men, their spears or arrows resting on their knees, smiling and laughing together. They gestured us to stop, and for the first time I felt a tremor, a mix of fear and of excitement. Our driver is totally professional and although he slowed, he did not attempt to stop, and the boys smiled as we passed them. My sense of wonder at our good fortune was now at a peak and I relaxed into the journey to let these images sink into my mind. However, again I had no time to process these pictures as we approached a strange sight. Spread across the road were palm fronds and leaves which made me shiver – in Nepal this had signified landmine or bomb and I felt myself tense involuntarily as we drew near. Then my eyes were drawn to the side of the road where a group of around 12 – 15 Jarawa women, babies and young children were standing at the side of the road as we passed. Why were they there? What were the leaves for? Why such a large group? The view of my local colleague is that due to the heat the women and children had come out of the forest and were resting on the road. The palm fronds were to make a more comfortable resting place, and they were less vulnerable to the mosquitoes at that time of day out of the full jungle cover. Nearing the checkpost we passed a final group of three children, all in the red twine strands and this time with little head coverings also made of the red twine. When we arrived at the checkpost I realised that we had been incredibly fortunate to have such a special experience.

On return to Port Blair, I repeated our experience to colleagues and it became clear that it was unusual for there to be so many Jarawa people at the roadside as we travelled through. The colleague who had been due to travel with me but who was prevented by ill health, said that during her many journeys on this route she had never seen more than one or two Jarawa people. It would be naïve to credit our experience to good fortune alone – it is also likely that the late rains this year are bringing food and water shortages for the hunter gatherer tribe and with it perhaps increased vulnerability to illness. Contact and access to health care brings with it risks. There are reports of Jarawa people being given alcohol, trading arrows for paan, eating foods with oil and spices which are alien to their digestive systems, and of contact bringing diseases which had previously been unknown to the tribe.

Ethical questions aside, I had returned to Port Blair with an undoubted sense of privilege – I had been fortunate to see many of the Jarawa people in their own territory, a rare and special experience in our modern world. This is enriched by the particular image preserved in my mind of the young Jarawa girl, smiling at the roadside as we passed through her land.

As I was unable to take my own photos, here are a couple of website sources of Jarawa people just like those I saw.

Source: www.larevuedegypte.com/imageview.aspx?ID=4504

www.horydoly.cz/vypsat.php?id=3281

Demons

2007-04-11T17:16:00.000+05:30

Wednesday 11 April

Just now I am facing up to my demons – I returned to the Andaman islands yesterday - it was more emotional than I expected but very healthy I think. In typical style though there was a small earthquake last night (they are fairly frequent I have to say) - just to welcome me back I guess! It certainly my my desk wobble and me shake! It was nothing like the biggie on 26th December 04 - only 5.5, but enough to really make me face up to those demons, particularly given the coincidence of timing – on the day I departed and the day I finally returned to the islands.

From: USGS ENS
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 8:25:58 PM
== PRELIMINARY EARTHQUAKE REPORT ==
Region: ANDAMAN ISLANDS, INDIA REGION
Magnitude: 5.5 Mb
Time near the Epicentre: 10 Apr 2007 19:26:53
Location with respect to nearby cities:
149 km (92 miles) N (354 degrees) of Port Blair, Andaman Islands, India

It is just as well I have an idyllic view from my room and an exciting trip through tribal territory tomorrow.

be gentle!

2007-04-10T18:51:00.000+05:30

Finally, finally I have taken this huge step and with great trepidation ventured into the world of the blog.

It will take me some getting used to - so please bear with me while I try and learn how to share news, musings and reflections in this space. Oh and thousands and thousands of photos of course..............